The language of makeup is constantly evolving and TikTok is the ideal hub for exploring the new perception of beauty, no longer aesthetic but personal. Indeed, it seems that the movement #CleanGirlMakeUp (a hashtag with over 550 million views that talks about “holistic”, fresh and clean faces, such as the #CloudSkin, a term coined by Dominic Skinner, global senior artist at Mac Cosmetics, to describe skin with a naturally luminous soft matte finish) is giving way to “self-manifesto” trends. Which break down barriers, remove stereotypes and promote new routines, products and usage techniques. In other words, “makeup on TikTok is a curious and unregulated medium to talk about freedom, individuality and creativity,” he says Simone Belli, national makeup artist of L’Oréal Paris. See revenge and mermaid make-up. The first, inspired by the famous and sexy black mini dress sported by Princess Diana for the first public appearance after breaking up with the prince Charles and the admission, on his part, of the relationship with Camilla Parker Bowles“it’s a psychological aid rather than a trend. It’s the trick of a moment of extreme madness and desperation, of those who refuse and don’t pamper themselves, but still find the strength to express their feelings with color, rebelling against the darkness”, he says Beautiful, “Without falling into excess but respecting the balance of shades, this is how “distracted” smokey eyes are born, purple, lilac, lime. There is no precision or perception of beauty: the goal is to capture attention”. Which is obtained by also looking at the sirens, mythological figures with a biting sensuality who seduced men with their bewitching song and the power of their gaze, and who mostly acted in small herds, as if to testify how much (feminine) union makes strength. “Accompanied by wavy hair that recalls the movement of the sea, the #MermaidEyes stand out for the eyes elongated by colored and graphic eyeliners with a horizontal cut, combined with mother-of-pearl eyeshadows and white mascara like the scales of a mermaid’s tail. The mouth is naked, welcoming. The claim is: find the little mermaid in you!”, continues the makeup artist.
If you have an appetite for protest, however, you can go back to looks like #MessyMakeUp and #DirtyMakeUp, or rather 90s grunge makeup (974 million views) and follow #IndieSleaze, an expression coined by the famous TikToker Mandy Lee to describe on-the-go make-up made of smokey eyes and smudged eyeliner – the “inspo” (social term that derives from the English inspirational) are the IT girls of the early 2000s, from Avril Lavigne to Kate Moss to the Olsen twins, always paparazzi at the crack of dawn.
“Even fake dark circles, #FakeDarkCircles on TikTok, answer the question: what did you do last night? I particularly like this trend because it tells of a lived experience, an emotion, a happy experience, and it is very real: I always suggest to my team not to completely cover an eye socket, because it takes away expressiveness from the face”, concludes Simone Belli. Are there other trends? Infinite. From the timeless freckles to Jennifer Lopez’s overline lips, that is, full mouths with a visible construction obtained thanks to a play between a light beige lipstick and a pencil darker than one’s lips that protrudes beyond the contour. From the plastic eyes of the Nineties disco dance (the #Glazedlids) to Taylor Swift’s #washeddenim, from the #DolphinSkin, the translucent and transparent skin similar to that of dolphins, to the one “made” of gelatin (#JelloSkin). Finally, all that remains is to look into the new season with a creative approach to self-tanner: racking up over 900 million views on social, will #selftan replace bronzers? Definitely not blushes, which rosy cheeks a la #CoquetteBeauty – an extension of the aesthetic”Barbiecore” from 7.1 billion viewsthe most popular emerging trend on TikTok in 2023 – remain a must have to bring out that mix of Daphne Bridgerton and Blair Waldorf in us.